El^Salvador

For all the tiny taquerias tucked in every crevice of Colorado Springs’ Taco Triangle, there isn’t much variety. The Triangle, made up of a slice of aging sprawl between Galley Road, Academy Boulevard and Union Boulevard, is home to what seems like 95 percent of the city’s true Mexican restaurants — places owned by immigrants and catering to immigrants, where English is as rare as a counter that doesn’t sell phone cards. Adventurous eaters uncover many delights in the Triangle: tongue or beef-cheek tacos folded in steaming soft, corn tortillas with fresh cilantro; rich, red posole soup; tostadas piled with citrusy shrimp ceviche. But after a while, the same pan-Mexican menu starts to repeat itself like the background in an old “Flintstones” cartoon: tacos, burritos, soup. Specialties and regional dishes are rare. And then there is El Poblano. The little lunch spot serves the usual Mexican canon, and does it better than most, but it also has a precious list of Central American dishes you almost never see in Colorado. The humble shop, in a rather dreary strip mall occupied by a Kung Fu center and Mosh Pit Records, bills itself as a pupuseria. Don’t know what a pupuseria is? I didn’t either until I sat down at one of the tidy dining room’s six small tables. Turns out a pupuseria is a place that serves a sort of Central American hot pocket, called a pupusa, that is the national snack of the owner’s home country, El Salvador. Order one ($1.75), and a basket arrives with a thick disc of masa cornmeal stuffed with gooey white cheese or, even better, a mix of cheese, refried beans and chicharrnes (seasoned, fried pig skin). On the side, you get a hefty jar of spicy, pickled cabbage and carrot, called curtido, which can be eaten on the side or heaped on top. Either way, the relish adds a terrific zing to the humble corn cakes. Make sure to ask for a bottle of pupusa salsa — a thin, spicy tomato salsa sequestered in the back, which apparently needs to be requested. Every time I’ve gone to El Poblano (and I really like it, so I’ve gone a lot) I’ve been the only person speaking English, including the staff. I view this as a good thing — proof of quality and authenticity. After all, Central Americans would know best whether the food is any good. And it is.

1719 S.W. Roxbury St.

More than just pupusas (though those here are top-notch), this restaurant and bakery turns out great chicken soup, tamales and other specialties from El Salvador in a bright, whitewashed setting. Baked goods can be froufy or simple. Pick one up on your way out, for later, when you finally get hungry again. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

El Salvador photography by Ben Ciuffa — Through Dec. 31, Just Good Food, 303 N. Rose St. (269) 217-7848..